Stinson - Hypothermia and Big Sharks

by Romi
(Miami, Fl)

In 1984 I was stationed at Letterman Army Medical Center on the Presidio. My buddy Jeff and I both being from Florida; he was from Pensacola and I was from Miami; decided to go surfing at Stinson Beach. It was July and all I wore was a 3 mil short spring which was my first of various mistakes!

When we got there I saw something I have never forgotten. There were last shark sighted signs with date, time, length and species! It said that the previous day at 2 p.m. there had been a 14 ft. great white sighting near the beach!!!

I decided since there were about 50 surfers in the water that I had a 2% chance of being attacked so with those odds I paddled out. Holy Crap can you say ice cream headache with my first duck dive! I was determined so I kept going. When I got to the lineup I sat up and waited like everyone else for these beautiful little 3 foot glassy waves to show up. I knew my feet were cold but before long I couldn't feel them. I now was starting to shiver (mind you I was 6'1" and 160lbs.)

Along came a set and I started going for it, fortunately I caught a wave and when I stood up I dragged my numb feet onto the deck where like two dead tree stumps they stayed. I couldn't feel my feet nor the board so I just rode straight into the white water and in to the beach.

At this point I quickly peeled everything off and threw two towels around me and I lay in the hot sun and sand for 45 minutes shivering trying to recover from hypothermia. I don't regret doing it because at 18 you have to try these things and have these experiences.

As far as Stinson goes, it was a nice beach for beginners but way too cold for this Caribbean kid from Miami.

Jesus Loves You!

Romi