I saw someone break their leash on a big day (close out), got caught in the rip and the board was gone. Got tired and almost didn't make it in. Someone in Oceano probably found it, and made a coffee table out of it.
I was an LA County Ocean Lifeguard for 12 years. I saw many surfers who weren't good swimmers get in trouble off their boards. Leashes are a good thing overall, but one of the unintended consequences is that many surfers who shouldn't be out there, are.
I call myself a waterman. I swim, surf, row, paddle, SUP, dive, skim and generally am willing to try anything in or on the water. Those values need to be passed on to the next generations.
Blink
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