Rincon Days

by Cy
(Hawaii)

I use to surf Rincon a beautiful wave in the early '60/'63 when we had no "safety" strap attached to the board. If you lost your board you had to move fast to save it from the mean old rocks by the highway. Wetsuits were not around so we used T-shirts or sweat-shirt and it was cold but hot once you got your wave. You would freeze but the rides were beautiful. Not that many guys out, just a few. We always found rocks around to build "fire pits" - stacking the rocks in a circle and then scrounge for wood. It was not uncommon to pull a piece of damaged wood off the highway sign and toss it into the fire and warm our bodies then back out to the waves which we shared with seals now and then. Leave LA about 2 or 3 AM just to get those beautiful waves. Days I'll never forget, but then I moved to the Islands and discovered a constant supply of waves and warm water, what a dream.