Dangers of surfing..part 4

by Mark Bates
(Carlsbad, CA.)

My own board!

Three weeks ago I was out at South Ponto Beach. Waves were 3-5 feet, but high tide was moving in fast, and with the backwash, the waves were walling up fast,and in shallow water.

I don't quite remember what happened, but I caught a wave that sucked me over the top, and the next thing I know, I'm popping out of the water, almost unconcious, my ear is bleeding, and the nose of my board is broken.

Turns out my board hit me so hard, it cut my ear AND perforated my eardrum. Not sure if my head broke the board, but it was swollen for about a week....