Big Wave Surfing

Cortes Bank

This spot is created by an undersea mountain about 100 miles west of San Diego and about 40 miles south-west of San Clemente Island. It's shallowest point is only 6ft beneath the surface. These mountain peaks are what cause the waves to break on huge swells. Although first surfed in 1990, really big waves weren't surfed until 2001 as part of "Project Nepture". It now attracts a group of surfers every year, despite being only accessible by the long boat ride out. Biggest documented waves here have been over 70ft, although it is theorized that this spot could produce rideable 100ft waves.

Ghost Trees

Ghost Trees is a famed big wave surfing location off the 18th hole of the Pebble Beach Golf Course. Very scenic location on 17 mile drive between Monterey and Carmel. The deep water of the Carmel Canyon just offshore refracts long period west swells. This creates waves 4-5 times larger than the surrounding area. Nasty rocks on the inside. It only breaks when gigantic and only about a half dozen times a year. Big wave surfer Peter Davi died surfing Ghost Trees in 2007. Recent regulations have banned personal watercraft. Since this a 90% tow-in only location, this may be seriously impede the chance of ever surfing giant waves here.

Mavericks

Most well know of California Big Wave Spots. This cold water wave breaks a half mile off Pillar Point in Half Moon Bay, 25 miles south of San Francisco. It is mostly a right breaking wave over 20 foot, although lefts can be surfed under 20 feet. It was surfed virtually alone be Jeff Clark from 1975 until 1990 when it finally gained international attention. Now it is home to the annual Mavericks Surf Contest. Supposedly there were 100ft waves seen here in Nov 2001, although they weren't ridden by anybody. Documented waves have been surfed up to 70ft here. The inside is a nasty mess of boulders called "The Boneyard". Hawaiian big wave surfer Mark Foo died here in 1994.

Tow-in surfing has really taken off on recent years, and is the only option available to surf really huge days. This has become an issue at Ghost Trees and Mavericks because of PWC bans, but some compromises have been reached to allow it to continue. Big Wave surfing is extremely dangerous and the vast majority of surfers in California never surf these spots. They are for dedicated, fit surfers willing to take serious risks for that ultimate rush. These three spots have put the Golden State on the big wave map.

Your best chance to see any of these would probably be at Mavericks. Large surf forecast services like Surfline can tell you when the these big waves combine with the right wind conditions for it to draw the big wave riders. You will want to bring your binoculars as the waves break very far out. Ghost Trees does not break as often but can also be seen from land. Obviously Cortes Bank can only be seen from a boat, so watching in on your computer or TV is as close as most of us will ever get. Perhaps more big wave spots await discovery in the more remote areas of Northern California.

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A video of JAWS Maui in Slow-mo that you may or may not be interested in.  Not rated yet
Aloha from Maui !, just thought you might like this clip for your blog. I shot it a couple of weeks ago at JAWS. It was the biggest it’s been in decades
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