12 Dec 08 Pacifica

by Admin

Better than yesterday. Size picked up a little, most rideable waves for me were 3-5ft, and the ocean has a little more bump to it than yesterday. What was better was that it was less crowded, the sets were more consistent, and I just plain caught more waves than yesterday. In fact, the whole session was very efficient. I didnt' look anywhere else, went straight into the water at LM, and knocked out waves for little more than an hour. Day 4 in a row of surfing. No gym this week. As usual, no surfing for the weekend, but I'm ready for a break anyway.